The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau TTB has formally established the Columbia Hills American Viticultural Area AVA in Klickitat County Washington. This new 29,387-acre appellation, effective September 16 2026, is situated entirely within the broader Columbia Valley AVA. Its creation marks a significant development for regional vintners, offering a more precise geographical identifier for wines produced from grapes grown in this distinct locale. The TTB's action allows for greater consumer clarity regarding wine origin and quality, based on the unique environmental characteristics of the Columbia Hills.
The Regulatory Framework for American Viticultural Areas
Under the authority granted by the Federal Alcohol Administration Act FAA Act, specifically 27 U.S.C. 205(e), the Secretary of the Treasury is empowered to regulate wine labeling to prevent consumer deception and provide adequate product information. The TTB administers this act, and through 27 CFR Part 4, it establishes and regulates the use of definitive viticultural areas as appellations of origin on wine labels. These designations, codified in 27 CFR Part 9, define grape-growing regions with distinguishing features. The goal is to allow vintners to accurately describe their wines and help consumers identify wines based on their geographic origin and perceived quality or reputation. It is important to note that AVA establishment signifies a geographic distinction, not an endorsement of wine quality by the TTB.
Defining the Columbia Hills AVA
The Columbia Hills AVA petition was submitted on behalf of Cascade Cliffs Vineyard and Winery. It details a region characterized by specific topographical, soil, and climatic conditions that differentiate it from adjacent areas. The AVA encompasses approximately 338 acres of vineyards, belonging to 19 different property owners, and includes four wineries.
The area is notably positioned on the southern slopes of the Columbia Hills, a 35-mile-long ridgeline paralleling the Columbia River in Klickitat County. A defining topographical feature is the series of south-facing stepped terraces and gently sloped gravel bars created by ancient ice-age floods. These formations are crucial, providing optimal locations for vineyards within an otherwise steeply sloped valley.
Soil composition within the Columbia Hills AVA is distinct. It comprises two primary map units: the Cheviot-Horseflat-Rockly-Kiona unit, featuring well-drained soils derived from basalt mixed with loess, and the Ewall-Dallesport-Rock Outcrop unit, characterized by wind-deposited sand over bedrock and ice-age gravel bars. These soils are well-drained to excessively well-drained and coarser than the loess-based soils prevalent elsewhere in the Columbia River basin. This coarseness promotes quicker soil warming and encourages deep vine root growth.
A Climate Conducive to Unique Varietals
The climate of the Columbia Hills AVA is significantly influenced by its proximity to the Columbia River. Approximately 80 percent of the AVA lies within a mile of the river, which acts as a thermal reservoir, moderating temperatures, particularly during early morning hours. This results in generally warmer growing season temperatures compared to surrounding regions. Average growing season temperatures range from 63.9 to 67.7 degrees Fahrenheit, with 194 to 254 frost-free days annually. Growing Degree Day GDD accumulations, a measure of heat accumulation critical for grape ripening, typically fall between 3,091 and 3,588. This warm climate is reported to accelerate grape ripening and facilitate the cultivation of warmer climate varietals, such as Grenache and Mourvedre.
Distinctions from Surrounding Regions
The TTB's approval is predicated on the Columbia Hills AVA's clear distinction from neighboring areas:
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To the North: Topography is much steeper and higher, less influenced by ice-age floods. Soils are deep and loess-derived. Growing season temperatures are significantly cooler, ranging from 57 to 59.5 degrees Fahrenheit, with GDDs between 1,834 and 2,309. The frost-free period is shorter.
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To the East: The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA is relatively flatter and at higher elevations, also less affected by ice-age floods. Its soils are primarily loess-based with lower average annual precipitation.
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To the South: Elevations are generally lower with northerly aspects. Soils are deep and loess-derived. Temperatures are lower than in the proposed AVA, with GDD accumulations ranging from 2,006 to 2,255 and a shorter frost-free period.
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To the West: The Columbia Gorge AVA exhibits higher elevations and greater topographical and soil diversity, attributable to varied bedrock, elevation, and slope angles. Growing season temperatures are cooler, and GDD accumulations are lower compared to Columbia Hills.
The Public Review Process
The TTB initiated the public review process by publishing Notice No. 235 in the Federal Register on December 5, 2024. This notice summarized the petition's evidence concerning the proposed AVA's name, boundary, and distinguishing features, including comparisons to adjacent areas. The TTB specifically sought comments on the accuracy of the petition's information and whether the proposed AVA was sufficiently distinct from the established Columbia Valley AVA to warrant separate recognition.
During the comment period, which closed on February 3, 2025, the TTB received five comments. Four of these comments explicitly supported the establishment of the Columbia Hills AVA. Representatives from V75 Vineyard, for instance, highlighted the region's unique terroir, winds, growing degree days, and geology as differentiating factors. They also underscored the appropriateness of the name and the potential economic benefits for the region's vineyards and wineries. Another commenter described the proposed AVA as "one of the most interesting grape-growing/viticultural areas identified in years." The remaining comment expressed neither support nor opposition. The overwhelming support from the public comment period affirmed the petition's arguments regarding the Columbia Hills' unique viticultural identity.
Implications for Vintners and Consumers
The establishment of the Columbia Hills AVA provides a powerful tool for vintners in Klickitat County to market their wines with greater precision. By using "Columbia Hills" on their labels, they can convey to consumers that their wines derive from grapes grown in a region with specific and distinct soil, climate, and topographical characteristics. This geographical specificity can command greater recognition and value for wines that genuinely reflect the unique terroir of this area. For consumers, the new AVA offers an enhanced ability to identify and select wines with particular flavor profiles and qualities associated with the Columbia Hills. It fosters transparency and allows for a more informed purchasing decision, enriching the experience of exploring Washington State wines.
